(WORKING)Material Comparisons
It can be daunting to have literally hundreds of colors and materials to choose from.
PLA,TPU PLA+"Thermoplastic PolyUrethane", PLA-Pro, etc.
Stiffest materialGenerally bends less easily than other materials
Hardest materialResists deformation by a pointy thing better than most (at least to start with...)
Very poor temperature resistancePrints left in a hot car will likely deform
Very poor impact resistancePLA Hammer + Nail = Plastic Shrapnel
Very poor creep resistancePLA shelf bracket + (insert time) = Shelf on floorI use PLA for a ton of things, but when it MUST hold weight, I use PC or PA depending on impact requirement
"+" and "Pro" modifiers vary wildly between manufacturersMake no assumptions about the modifiers;test EVERY new material
MoistureIncreased stringing with more moistureDecreased toughness (embrittlement) with extended moisture or ultraviolet light exposure (Some old PLA gets brittle)Most transparent, translucent, and silk filaments seem to be less affected by moisture
OpinionsBest for aesthetic print qualitySeems to creep under significant stressesFavorite material for prototyping $$$TPE(prototypes"ThermoPlasticbecome finished products when they work the first time)Elastomer"
UsesAnything that will live inside a home, but will not have large physical stress placed upon it
ExceptionsProtopasta HTPLA(High Temperature Polylactic Acid)Prints like normal PLA then heat treated at increasing temperatures, and get ~100c heat deflection
Lay-Filaments Reflect-O-Lay Flexible PLAPrints and physically acts like soft TPU/TPEFeels somewhat "fuzzy" and a lot like rubberCrazy retroreflector effect
TPU, TPE,, Flexible-PLA, etc.
- Softest material
- Has more in common with rubber than plastic
- Best impact resistance
- Adequate temperature resistance
- Innate flexibility allows use well above the glass transition temperature
-
Moisture
- TPU and TPE filaments MUST be dry!
- Moist filament has horrible print quality
- Weaknesses are created in each layer by Steam bubbles
-
Opinions
- Medium to poor aesthetic print quality
- Printing a flexible material offers a new door of possibilities for home 3D printers
-
Uses
- Anything that needs to be flexible or survive regular & significant impacts
PETG, PETG+, PETG-Pro, etc.
- Prints on most printers capable of PLA
- Adequate temperature resistance
ABS "Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene"
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
GetsNegativea bad reputation becauseissues- Warping
- Possible layer delamination
- Noxious off-gassing
- Prefers enclosure/print chamber to be kept around half it's glass transition point (~50c)
- Any plastic containing Styrene stinks when printing
- My Opinion: Mostly seal
thea 3d printer intoalmost anyan enclosure to keep both Heat and Stink inside while printing
- Thin nylon photography tents might be OK if the room is already REALLY warm but they loose heat quickly
- Thin plastic sheeting works better than nylon but suffers from poor insulation qualities
alsoif ambient is chilly - Large cardboard box worked great but I didn't like unfolding the flaps to touch printer each time
...and the molten plastic being slung around inside a paper box made me a little FIRE nervous if I'm honest!
- IKEA LACK table with foam-core craft board walls/door made for excellent insulation
ASA
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PC
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PP
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PA, Nylon, etc.
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PE
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PLA "PolyLactic Acid", PLA+, PLA-Pro, etc.
- Stiffest material
- Generally bends less easily than other materials
- Hardest material
- Resists deformation by a pointy thing better than most (at least to start with...)
- Very poor temperature resistance
- Prints left in a hot car will likely deform
- Very poor impact resistance
- PLA Hammer + Nail = Plastic Shrapnel
- Very poor creep resistance
- PLA shelf bracket + (insert time) = Shelf on floor
- I use PLA for a ton of things, but when it MUST hold weight, I use PC or PA depending on impact requirement
- "+" and "Pro" modifiers vary wildly between manufacturers
- Make no assumptions about the modifiers; test EVERY new material
-
Deterioration
- Increased stringing with more moisture typically, but usually very mild compared to PETG, TPU, etc.
- Embrittlement with extended moisture or UltraViolet light exposure
- These traits seem to follow the base material rather than the additives or colorants
- Some transparent, translucent, or silk filaments seemed to be comparatively less affected
- These traits seem to follow the base material rather than the additives or colorants
-
Opinions
- Best for aesthetic print quality
- Seems to creep under significant stresses
- Favorite material for prototyping $$$ (prototypes become finished products when they work the first time)
-
Uses
- Anything that will live inside a home, but will not have large physical stress placed upon it
-
Known Exceptions (to the normal rules)
- Protopasta HTPLA (High Temperature Polylactic Acid)
- Prints like normal PLA then heat treated at increasing temperatures to get ~100c heat deflection temp!
- Warpage during heat treat process can be an issue for some part geometries
- Lay-Filaments Reflect-O-Lay Flexible PLA
- Prints and physically acts like soft (<90) TPU/TPE
- Feels somewhat "fuzzy" and a lot like rubber
- Crazy retroreflector effect
- http://lay-filaments.com/LayFilaments-Overview+LightMeta5-b.pdf
- Protopasta HTPLA (High Temperature Polylactic Acid)