Material Comparisons
We live in a fantastic world to have literally hundreds of colors available in dozens of different materials for hobby 3D printing
TPU "Thermoplastic PolyUrethane", TPE "ThermoPlastic Elastomer", Flexible-PLA, etc.
- Softest material straight from a filament printer
- Has more in common with rubber than plastic
- Best impact resistance
- Adequate temperature resistance
- Innate flexibility allows its use well above the glass transition temperature
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Moisture
- TPU and TPE filaments MUST be dry!
- Moist filament has horrible print quality
- Weaknesses are created in each layer by Steam bubbles
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Uses
- Anything that needs to be flexible or survive regular & significant impacts
- If the low temp and flexibility aren't problems, this can be used in place of many other plastics
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Issues
- Flexibility, stretch, compression, etc. are REAL problems for some extruder styles
- Bowden systems can usually deal down to 95a shore hardness materials if printed SUPER S L O W
- Multi-Material systems can RARELY deal with 95a materials (MMU, Palette, AMS, etc.)
- Flexibility, stretch, compression, etc. are REAL problems for some extruder styles
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My Opinions
- Medium to poor aesthetic print quality when compared to other filament materials
- Printing flexible materials can offer many new possibilities for home 3D printers
- Rubber mallet, corner bumpers, cane tips, protective cases, etc.
ABS "Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene"
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
- Negative issues
- Warping - Ambient closer to Tg helps
- Possible layer delamination- Ambient closer to Tg helps
- Noxious off-gassing - Enclosed printing with internal carbon filter or after-print venting helps
- Prefers enclosure/print chamber to be kept around half it's glass transition point (~50c)
- Any plastic containing Styrene stinks when printing and reacts with Acetone
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Post-processing
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Can be Vapor Smoothed using Acetone for glassy smooth prints
- Sands nicely by machine if kept cool, sanding by hand can be dusty
- Recommend wet sanding when possible
- Painting protects the plastic from UV deterioration and fills in layer lines
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My Opinions
- Mostly seal a 3d printer into an enclosure to keep both Heat and Stink inside while printing
- Thin nylon photography tents might be OK if the room is already REALLY warm but they loose heat quickly
- Thin plastic sheeting works better than nylon but suffers from poor insulation qualities if ambient temp is cool
- Large cardboard box worked great but I didn't like unfolding the flaps to touch printer each time
- IKEA LACK table with foam-core craft board walls/door made for excellent insulation
- Mostly seal a 3d printer into an enclosure to keep both Heat and Stink inside while printing
ASA "Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate"
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
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- Negative issues
Warping - Ambient closer to Tg helps
Possible layer delamination- Ambient closer to Tg helps
Noxious off-gassing - Enclosed printing with internal carbon filter or after-print venting helps
- Negative issues
- Prefers enclosure/print chamber to be kept around half it's glass transition point (~50c)
- Any plastic containing Styrene stinks when printing and reacts with Acetone
-
Post-processing
-
Can be Vapor Smoothed using Acetone for glassy smooth prints
- Sands nicely by machine if kept cool, sanding by hand can be dusty
- Recommend wet sanding when possible
- Painting protects the plastic from UV deterioration and fills in layer lines
-
-
My Opinions
- Mostly seal a 3d printer into an enclosure to keep both Heat and Stink inside while printing
- Thin nylon photography tents might be OK if the room is already REALLY warm but they loose heat quickly
- Thin plastic sheeting works better than nylon but suffers from poor insulation qualities if ambient temp is cool
- Large cardboard box worked great but I didn't like unfolding the flaps to touch printer each time
- IKEA LACK table with foam-core craft board walls/door made for excellent insulation
- Mostly seal a 3d printer into an enclosure to keep both Heat and Stink inside while printing
PLA "PolyLactic Acid", PLA+, PLA-Pro, etc.
- Stiffest material
- Generally bends less easily than other materials
- Hardest material
- Resists deformation by a pointy thing better than most (at least to start with...)
- Very poor temperature resistance
- Prints left in a hot car will likely deform
- Very poor impact resistance
- PLA Hammer + Nail = Plastic Shrapnel
- Very poor creep resistance
- PLA shelf bracket + (insert time) = Shelf on floor
- I use PLA for a ton of things, but when it MUST hold weight, I use PC or PA depending on impact requirement
- "+" and "Pro" modifiers vary wildly between manufacturers
- Test EVERY new material; Make no assumptions about the modifiers or their expected properties
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Deterioration
- Increased stringing with more moisture typically, but usually very mild compared to PETG, TPU, etc.
- Embrittlement with extended moisture or Ultraviolet light exposure
- These traits seem to follow the base material rather than the additives or colorants
- Some transparent, translucent, or silk filaments seemed to be significantly less affected
- These traits seem to follow the base material rather than the additives or colorants
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Post-processing
- Sanding PLA is SLOW! - If sanded too briskly the dust melts back onto the part, ruining the surface
- 3D Gloop is the only "consumer accessible" smoothing agent for PLA - Industrial chemicals are available
- Painting protects the plastic from UV deterioration and fills in layer lines
- Lighter colors absorb less heat
- Glossy finishes absorb less heat
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Uses
- Anything that will live inside a home (No UV and low heat)
- No large physical stresses placed upon it (Creeping over time)
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Known Exceptions (to the normal rules)
- Protopasta HTPLA (High Temperature Polylactic Acid)
- Prints like normal PLA then heat treated at increasing temperatures to get ~100c heat deflection temp!
- Warpage during heat treat process can be an issue for some part geometries
- https://proto-pasta.com/pages/high-temp-pla
- Lay-Filaments Reflect-O-Lay Flexible PLA
- Prints and physically acts like soft (<90) TPU/TPE
- Feels somewhat "fuzzy" and a lot like rubber
- Crazy retroreflector effect
- http://lay-filaments.com/LayFilaments-Overview+LightMeta5-b.pdf
- Protopasta HTPLA (High Temperature Polylactic Acid)
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My Opinions
- Best for aesthetic print quality
- Seems to "creep" under any significant stresses
- Favorite material for prototyping $$$ (prototypes become finished products when they work the first time)
PETG, PETG+, PETG-Pro, etc.
- Prints on most printers capable of PLA
- Adequate temperature resistance
PC
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PP
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PA, Nylon, etc.
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PE
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
More to come...
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