(WORKING)Material Comparisons
It can be daunting to have literally hundreds of colors and materials to choose from.
PLA, PLA+, PLA-Pro, etc.
- Stiffest material
- Generally bends less easily than other materials
- Hardest material
- Resists deformation by a pointy thing better than most
- Very poor temperature resistance
- Prints left in a hot car will likely deform
- Very poor impact resistance
- PLA Hammer + Nail = Plastic Shrapnel
- "+" and "Pro" modifiers vary wildly between manufacturers
- Make no assumptions about the modifiers; test EVERY new material
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Moisture
- Increased stringing with more moisture
- Decreased toughness (embrittlement) with extended moisture or ultraviolet light exposure (Some old PLA gets brittle)
- Most transparent, translucent, and silk filaments seem to be less affected by moisture
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Opinions
- Best for aesthetic print quality
- Seems to creep under significant stresses
- Favorite material for prototyping $$$ (prototypes become finished products when they work the first time)
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Uses
- Anything that will live inside a home, but will not have large physical stress placed upon it
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Exceptions
- Protopasta HTPLA (High Temperature Polylactic Acid)
- Prints like normal PLA then heat treated at increasing temperatures, and get ~100c heat deflection
- Lay-Filaments Reflect-O-Lay Flexible PLA
- Prints and physically acts like soft TPU/TPE
- Feels somewhat "fuzzy" and a lot like rubber
- Crazy retroreflector effect
- Protopasta HTPLA (High Temperature Polylactic Acid)
TPU, TPE, Flexible-PLA, etc.
- Softest material
- Has more in common with rubber than plastic
- Best impact resistance
- Adequate temperature resistance
- Innate flexibility allows use well above the glass transition temperature
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Moisture
- TPU and TPE filaments MUST be dry!
- Moist filament has horrible print quality
- Weaknesses are created in each layer by Steam bubbles
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Opinions
- Medium to poor aesthetic print quality
- Printing a flexible material offers a new door of possibilities for home 3D printers
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Uses
- Anything that needs to be flexible or survive regular & significant impacts
PETG, PETG+, PETG-Pro, etc.
- Prints on most printers capable of PLA
- Adequate temperature resistance
ABS "Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene"
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
- Gets a bad reputation because
- Possible layer delamination
- Noxious off-gassing
- Prefers enclosure/print chamber to be kept around half it's glass transition point (~50c)
- Any plastic containing Styrene stinks when printing
- My Opinion: Mostly seal the 3d printer into almost any enclosure to keep both Heat and Stink inside
- Thin nylon photography tents might be OK if the room is already REALLY warm but they loose heat quickly
- Thin plastic sheeting works better than nylon but suffers from poor insulation qualities also
- Large cardboard box worked great but didn't like unfolding the flaps to touch printer each time
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...and the molten plastic being slung around inside a paper box made me a little FIRE nervous if I'm honest!
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- IKEA LACK table with foam-core craft board walls/door made for excellent insulation
ASA
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PC
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PP
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PA, Nylon, etc.
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end
PE
- Requires higher temperature "All Metal" hot end