Filament Printer Rolling Cart-----NOT-DONE-----
Mobile and Self-Contained
Unplug and roll it into the corner, enabling better space management without stopping or disturbing the 3D printer's work.
There doesn't seem to be a real need for active heating inside the enclosure, so it got removed.
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Automatic Fire Extinguisher Ball - 13-foot diameter
- https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fire+extinguisher+ball
- https://www.amazon.com/Flamebuster-Lightweight-Extinguisher-Automatically-Transportation/dp/B09YYWD94D
- It would be a hell of a mess if it went off, but if I’m cleaning up dust from this thing it hopefully means I still have a house to clean it out of
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Ikea BROR Utility Cart
- https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-utility-cart-black-pine-plywood-60333850/
- The working surface of this cart is almost an inch narrower than the LACK table, so my table legs hang over the edge in the front
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Ikea LACK Side Table
- https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lack-side-table-white-30449908/
- https://www.printables.com/model/248372-enclosure-ikea-lack-table-foldable-door
- https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pen-Gear-Ultra-Strong-White-Tri-Fold-Foam-Board-28-x40-1-Pk/125704738
- https://www.amazon.com/PAUTIX-2400LEDs-Lead-Free-Material-Flexible/dp/B0B9SG5S3W
- I picked white with the idea of bouncing more light around the inside of the box, although I am not certain this actually helps the camera...maybe black spray-paint would help?
- As originally built I used acrylic sheet as the design suggested, but I wanted to SEAL the enclosure...Foam Core seals and insulates!
- The cheap foam core cardboard is super easy to cut and glues together nicely with GEL superglue and accelerator spray
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1000 VA Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS)
- https://www.microcenter.com/product/610649/apc-back-ups-pro-bx-1000va,-8-outlets,-avr,-lcd-interface
- Any 1kVA UPS should work for continued printing through times of power fluctuation or loss
- I choose to upcycle an older UPS by drilling a hole in the side to plug in an outboard battery
- Battery Backed-Up
- Printer
- Raspberry Pi
- Surge Only
- Dehydrator
- Power Strip
- Dehydrator
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35 Amp Hour Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Battery (and connections)
- https://www.homedepot.com/p/MIGHTY-MAX-BATTERY-12-Volt-35-Ah-Rechargeable-GEL-Sealed-Lead-Acid-SLA-Battery-ML35-12GEL/308970494
- https://www.amazon.com/Tanstic-Ratcheting-Connectors-Compatible-Powerpole/dp/B0969L6SRJ
- https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Flexible-Strands-Stranded/dp/B017TGYW3S
- https://www.amazon.com/Elec-Connector-Waterproof-Automotive-Electrical/dp/B075MBM64M
- This expands the cart’s capabilities by allowing me to unplug the cart (UPS), and although not powering the dehydrator or an active enclosure heater, the printer and its Pi continue to chug along while being rolled aside for a couple hours
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APC Surge suppressor power strip
- https://www.amazon.com/APC-Protector-SurgeArrest-Essential-PE63/dp/B01M3SYFL4
- I know it’s overkill to have a nice surge suppressor behind a UPS but I needed the plugs
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Generic Food Dehydrator
- https://www.amazon.com/HIZLJJ-Dehydrators-Machine-Transparent-Dehydration/dp/B08N4T5CGX
- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4639040
- https://www.printables.com/model/73335-dehydrator-dual-spool-holder
- This dehydrator:
- Is cheap
- Fits 2+ rolls of filament
- Gets hot enough to dry the polycarbonates and nylons thoroughly (or melt some spools)
- I cut the bottoms out of all but one of the trays, notched 2 trays for Tube adapters, installed Bowden tube fittings on adapters, added spool holder, and added roughly 3 feet of PTFE tube for each roll
- The PTFE tubes are just guides to keep the filament covered until it reaches the enclosure, once again probably overkill
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TP-Link Kasa Smart Plugs
- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3
- https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Energy-Monitoring-Smart-Plug/dp/B08LN3C7WK
- I move the metered plug around to test, but the regular cheap plugs go on everything!
Extras
- Mister or spray bottle with Water
- “Flush Cut” style electronics side cutters
- The cheap ones that come with most 3D printers are fine for this kind of thing
- Needle Nose Pliers for support material etc.
- Without Teeth – https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-PN-2008-Long-Nose-Pliers-Outside/dp/B00FZPHIZ0/
- With Teeth – Use the cheap ones that come with most 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/hwangli-Multifunction-Needle-Precision-Stripper/dp/B07MHBW2QZ
- Long tweezers to pull filament “Ooze” off the hot nozzle
- Several scalpels
- I like to always have a sharp blade in the shape most useful for the application
- Smaller Handles (#3 handle)
- #11 Flat edge triangular blade
- #12 Hawkbill\hook blade
- #15 Small rounded edge blade
- Larger Handles (#4 handle)
- #22 Large rounded tip and flat side edge blade
- #23 Large all rounded edge blade
- There are printable scalpel handles, but I prefer the metal ones on Ebay for a buck or so each
- Handle Size 3 - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1488946
- Handle Size 4 - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1479421
- Blade Covers - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101180
- Blade Disposal Bank - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3417107
- Printable scalpel covers made from PLA can be heated then squished, in order to fit snuggly on whatever handle being used
- Hexagonal Desk Organizer
- https://www.printables.com/model/277310-hexagonal-organizers
- I liked the "Green" version scaled to ~200x200mm, it keeps adhesive bottles and tools together