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Print Beds---NOTDONE

Many options

Lots of materials can successfully be used as print bed surfaces, and some of those work better for one filament or the other. 

  • Float Glass, Tempered Glass, and Mirrors
    • Most filaments stick nicely to glass
    • Super Flat for shinny bottoms
    • Thicker build plates are usually better at evening out bed heater hot spots
    • Any type of adhesive can be used
    • Sometimes chips when removing prints if there is no adhesive used (Separation Layer)
  • WhamBam - Smooth PC
    • Worked for PLA, TPU, PETG, and some PAs
    • Maximum Bed Temperature 100c
    • Can be refreshed with sandpaper as it ages
    • Any type of adhesive can be used
    • Manufacturer Statement
      • Bed temps for PLA 40-60°C.

      • The gap for PLA is less important, moderate to high gap.

      • You can lower your bed temperature after the first 10 layers without it coming loose so it’s also good for economy use.

      • You may need a scraper to pry off parts if stuck well, so be careful not to gouge.

      • High-temperature filaments may fuse to the surface so do not squish first layer too much and you may want to use a bit of glue stick as barrier for easier release.

      • TPU also sticks really well to this, so you may want to print with no bed heat and possibly glue stick.

      • Clean between uses with rubbing alcohol (IPA) and steel wool if needed to remove leftover filament.

  • WhamBam - Smooth PEX
    • Worked for PLA, TPU, PETG, ABS, ASA, HIPS, PC, PP, PA12, PA6(left marks on bed)
    • Maximum Bed Temperature 150c
    • Can be refreshed with sandpaper as it ages
    • Any type of adhesive can be used
    • Manufacturer Statement
      • Bed temps for PLA 70°C, gap PLA as tight as you can get it with full material flow. The first layer must be squished and flat-topped.

      • Bed temps for PETG 70°C, gap PETG moderate.  For PETG set the hot end of lower limit to good layer bonding, usually 240-250°C to avoid fusing with surface.

      • Do not use part fan until layer 3-4.

      • Let parts cool completely before popping off, never pry or force parts off or you can take a chunk of your build surface off.

      • Finger oils and dust are prohibitors to adhesion, so keep your beds clean.

      • We have had success printing PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, PP, and glass or carbon fiber filled PC and Nylon on our PEX build surfaces with no adhesives needed for bond. However for pure Nylon and PC its usually necessary to use a glue stick or magigoo to get the part to stay down. You will need an enclosure when printing ABS, Nylon, PC and other high shrinkage materials.

  • Prusa - Textured PEI
  • 1mm Carbon Fiber Twill - Smooth
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  • 1mm FR-4 (Glass-Reinforced Epoxy Laminate) - Satin
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